address: The Trinity Arms, 45 Trinity Gardens, Brixton, London, SW9 8DR

telephone: 020 7274 4544

email: trinityarms@youngs.co.uk

website: http://www.trinityarms.co.uk/

The refurbished Trinity Arms reopened in mid-August providing much more space in the bar, a little loss of character and something new upstairs , a Burger Shack. You might well question the need for another burger bar, particularly in Brixton where burger lovers are spoilt for choice, but it seems that this is something Young’s, the Brewery, are rolling out across their chain of pubs. You can still get other food in the bar, but upstairs it’s just the burgers. It seems a bit odd and it will be interesting to see how it works out. The key difference here is perhaps it has more of a restaurant like ambience, rather than the “fast food, eat your burger and get out”, feeling you get at the other places in Brixton.

We can definitely say that the room overlooking the square is an eclectic mix of designs. A 50s styled set of chairs and tables, with bright cushions, a modern picture wall with a Victorian fireplace.

The menu is typical of most of the numerous burger bars in Brixton but the difference is the price, don’t go looking for a cheap meal. There is the usual classic, a streaky version which has added bacon, a veggie (beetroot, fennel, lentil & mozzarella) and a meat feast (Prime British beef burger, ale onions, cheese…. and chilli pulled pork). All come with a sprinkling of salad, so we felt a modicum of virtue and not quite so guilty eating the curly fries.

But there are small plates too, including salt beef fritters; bacon, egg, cheese and lettuce (although it sounds better on the menu), Buttermilk chicken wings, lettuce, blue cheese, apple & walnut salad and cheese stuffed jalapenos.

We weren’t that hungry so ordered just two dishes, a veggie burger and the salt beef fritters. The veggie burger was tasty but when it came I wished I had chosen a classic, which looked particularly good on other tables. The salt beef fritters were served with mustard and pickles and with some of the curly fries were enough for a light meal. The curly fries were a revelation as clearly I have led a sheltered life. They came with a host of potential sauces to douse them with too.

We finished off the meal by sharing what on the menu looked like an interesting dessert – gooseberry and marmalade trifle. In the event it wasn’t interesting and, despite a sweet tooth, we didn’t finish it, even between us. Something of the polystyrene about the consistency and very little taste.

We ordered a Rekorderlig strawberry and lime, and water. Next time I will stick to water as you need to double down on anything sweet because, as always, the burger bun has all the sugar you need. The bill with a tip came to almost £40, so as we have suggested, not a cheap option. We will probably visit again – it’s just so convenient – but will stick to the tried and tested, such as a classic burger and a pint.