Address: 11-13A Market Row, SW9 8LB
Tuesday to Sunday: 12 noon to 10pm
You might well ask what is the point of another burger place in Brixton, other than somewhere to go when you definitely want a burger and Honest Burger is too busy? Black Bear is not new to burgers, however, learning their trade at pop-ups and residences, but this their first sit-down location. For this they’ve chosen Brixton, replacing Wild Caper, one of nu-Brixton’s earliest eating places. The site has had a major refurbishment, with plenty of space inside for those cold winter nights.
For mains there’s a short five-option menu including a “Veggie Black Bear”. But as our visit was just into February we didn’t feel any guilt at going for two of the beef options. It’s obigatory chips with everyting, which I sometimes find annoying, but on this occasion it didn’t rankle, as we were hungry enough.
I chose the Black and Blue Burger, which was, it said on the menu, was “dry aged beef, cheese, bacon, blue cheese sauce, onions”. I didn’t really notice the cheese, but perhaps it got lost in the sauce. The burger itself was fine but a bit overdone for my taste – we weren’t offered a choice. The bun was good, soft but enough structure not to disintegrate when eaten as all proper burgers should be, by hand.
My companion chose the Brisket Burger, which of course is a burger topped with slices of what was described as “12hr beer braised brisket” with “cheese, pink pickled onions, garlic mayo”. This received favourable comments.
The chips were great, with both reasonable-sized portions getting finished, although, admittedly, I had more than my fair share.
This was accompanied by a glass each of the two beers on offer, Camden Hells Lager and Camden Pale Ale.
The total cost was £37.41 including 12.5% service, so certainly not cheap. These were good burgers, with efficient and friendly service. So nothing really to complain about. But other burger places have come and gone in Market Row, and it will be interesting to see if they can secure a permanent place.